I was asked a couple of questions which prompted this post.
First Ben Green asked me who I think this is for?
This is a good question, and I personally believe it benefits all users, whether you're using it for gaming or productivity, in full power mode or lesser modes. I tend to give Cinebench specific numbers as a way to show the improvements made on the CPU performance scale. Which looks just like increase in numbers... so what? Those numbers show what the all core performance will be like, although it may not transfer 1 to 1 in terms of a straight 20% uplift in performance in all workloads. It is indicative of an increase in performance and efficiency.
In all core workloads, higher frequency means more work done. So without changing the power limits you're going to get more performance per watt. That code you need to compile that normally takes 20minues... might take 15mins. Don't quote me on that specifically as I don't use it for productivity. But that's 5mins saved... so more work can be done metaphorically speaking.
In terms of games, laptops have long term power limits and maximum crossloads between CPU and GPU. If both are pegged, the wattage limits on the CPU tend to be much lower than the GPU for obvious reasons. Though you DO still need CPU performance too. A simple example here is you may be limited to 65w on the CPU in some scenarios, but with undervolting that 65w with a good tune could be equal to 100w+ of stock power. Yes the power limit itself is the same but the performance you're getting from it is much greater after undervolting. So those stutters you might get from the CPU lagging behind may be gone. Then the Dynamic boost might not need to kick in so all that power can go into the GPU rather than needing to go back and forth between them. Making for a generally smoother experience.
Some games need less power to run than others. Elden Ring (other games may need more CPU power so MMV) for example, if I use my full performance profile it'll eat between 50-90w depending on areas and loading. Using my "Battery" profile this drops it to around 35-55w depending instead, with NO penalty to performance. (This happens because CPUs are built to use what ever performance they have to do any task, matter less to if it needs full power or clocks) That saves a reasonable amount of power and also means the machine is cooler and quieter. That same battery profile uses much less power and when in silent mode having a much smaller power budget, can do more if it needs to but when doing nothing but browsing drains the battery much less too. So I can sit on battery for longer if I need to.
Another question was posed by Watto, he asked if there was any risks?
Yes and no.
As I had pointed out in the other posts, as long as you're removing voltage and not adding it, there is absolutely no risk to the hardware in terms of damage.
The only risk comes from being too rash or not checking up on things after a crash or 2. If you damage the OS, it can normally limp along, it will rarely become a major issue, but it can. So if you don't take your time and keep using high undervolts off the bat and constantly crashing out without using SFC or DISM to be use your OS is ok you may bust it. Any data on the OS drive will be lost as you will have to make a USB Windows image on another machine and completely reinstall Windows.
Or if you don't test it properly to make sure it is stable, start working on something important and poof...
This will happen. Always be sure to do the testing properly.
Sometimes you'll have annoying issues where you pass testing, but then boot a game with a heavy shader compile and it'll saying something about out of memory and crash the game. This means the UV is unstable for that game. It's annoying but happens. Then you end up having to alter the undervolt for game stability too.
HOWEVER, if you have been stable for a long time and this stuff randomly starts happening then the CPU may have started to degrade a little. This can happen over time anyway, or the MCU issues with Intel chips. Either way, it means you'll likely have to reduce your undervolt again to regain stability. Basically the CPU starts needing more voltage to do the same tasks. This in theory should take years. so if it starts happening quickly and repeatedly, get on to your warranty.
Any other questions please feel free to ask.